Fleur de Cuir: Orchestrating Apricot Silk and Cedarwood Shadows
At 5% concentration, Fleur de Cuir—a co-distilled osmanthus-cedarwood material from Payan Bertrand—excels in fruity oud compositions, delivering apricot liqueur brightness, suede-soft leather, and oud-like resonance. This research explores four compositional pathways and provides a complete formula showcasing the material as architectural centerpiece.
The Architectonics of Non-Sweet Resinous Wood: A Study in Structural Tenacity
A comprehensive analysis of non-sweet resinous woods in perfumery, exploring the chemical and olfactive distinctions between dry, terpenic resins and sweet balsamic materials.
Thyme White’s Phenolic Power in Woody Fragrances
White thyme oil delivers powerful phenolic-herbaceous character in woody fragrances at 0.20-10.53% concentrations, though IFRA limits it to 2.0% maximum. Cedarwood and patchouli emerge as primary partners in formulations ranging from trace complexity modifiers to major aromatic components.
